[Top]
[Prev]
[Next]
[Bottom]
A
-
B
-
C
-
D
-
E
-
F
-
G
-
H
-
I
-
J
-
K
-
L
-
M
-
N
-
O
-
P
-
Q
-
R
-
S
-
T
-
U
-
V
-
W
-
X
-
Y
-
Z
-> Glossaire français
B
Word
-> "Mot"
Symbol
Unity
Definition
Bore
->
"
Mascaret"
A tidal wave phenomenon: the sudden surge with which the incoming tide arrives in some parts of the world.
Bottom friction
->
"
Friction de fond"
One cause of
"
Energy loss"
.
Breaker index
->
"
Indice de déferlement"
Ratio of the height of a wave to the depth of the water it is breaking into.
Breaker zone
->
"
Zone de déferlement"
Area of a coastal sea where the shoaling bottom causes the wave breaking.
Breaking wave
->
"
Déferlante"
When waves become critically steep, they peak up and break. Causes: shoaling bottom, strong current, opposite wind.
There are usually three kinds of breaking waves: surging breakers, spilling breakers and plunging breakers.
Broadness factor
->
"
Indice de largeur du spectre"
4
most commonly used.
-> see form
See also
"
Spectral width parameters"
.
[Top]
[Prev]
[Next]
[Bottom]
Copyright © 1998, IFREMER. All rights reserved.