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-> Glossaire français
P
Word
-> "Mot"
Symbol
Unity
Definition
Particle movement
->
"
Mouvement des particules"
Waves passing through water cause particles near the surface to rotate in circular orbits in deep water and in elliptic orbit in shallow water.
See
"
Orbital velocity"
.
Peak direction
->
"
Direction pic"
p
deg
The direction which corresponds to the
"
Peak frequency"
.
See also
"
Direction of wave propagation"
,
"
Mean wave direction"
,
"
Wave direction"
.
Peak frequency
->
"
Fréquence pic"
fp
Hz
Frequency at which the
"
Spectral density function"
is at a maximum.
Peak period
->
"
Période pic"
Tp
s
Spectral peak wave period 1/fp where fp is the spectral
"
Peak frequency"
.
Also called
"
Modal period"
.
Peak wave length
->
"
Longueur pic"
Lp
m
Wave length at fp.
Peakedness factor
->
"
Facteur de finesse du pic du spectre"
Qp
-> see form
See also
"
Spectral width parameters"
.
Period of maximum wave
->
"
Période de la vague maximale"
THmax
s
Duration between the zero-crossings which define the wave of maximum height.
Zero downcrossing or zero upcrossing.
Phase velocity
->
"
Vitesse de phase"
cp
m/s
Speed of a wave in a wave train.
Defined as: wave length/wave period i.e
/k
[2]
.
Plunging waves
->
"
Déferlement plongeant"
A kind of breaking waves: created when an abrupt shoaling of the bottom creates a sudden deficiency of water ahead of the wave.
Probability density function
->
"
Fonction de densité de probabilité"
p(x)
-> see form
Probability distribution function
->
"
Fonction de distribution de probabilité"
P(x)
Defined as: Prob{x(t)<x} where x(t) is the variable considered.
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