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-> Glossaire français
S
Word
-> "Mot"
Symbol
Unity
Definition
Sandwave
->
"
Dune sous-marine"
A large wavelike sand feature usually in shallow water.
Saros
->
"
Saros"
Duration of exactly 18 years, 18 and 1/3 days, in which solar and lunar eclipses repeat themselves under the same conditions.
Scour
->
"
Affouillement"
Movement of underwater particle caused by waves and currents.
Sea breeze
->
"
Brise de mer"
Light
"
Onshore wind"
which is generated by the difference of temperature between land and water.
Sea puss
->
"
Baïne"
A dangerous longshore current caused by return flow.
Sea state
->
"
Etat de mer"
A wave system with constant statistical properties over some extent in time and space.
Seiche
->
"
Seiche"
A
"
Stationary wave"
which appears in lakes, semi-enclosed bodies of water, and which is due to a strong wind or changes in barometric pressure.
Seiche celerity
->
"
Vitesse de seiche"
Propagation speed of that kind of wave in finite depth.
-> see form
Seiche period
->
"
Période de seiche"
-> see form
Seismic disturbances
->
"
Perturbations sismiques"
See
"
Wave generation"
,
"
Tsunamis"
.
Semidiurnal
->
"
Semidiurne"
An event with a period of half a day.
Set of current
The direction toward which the current flows.
See
"
Current direction"
.
Shallow-water wave
->
"
Vagues de haut-fond"
Wave moving in water shallower than half its length.
See also
"
Shoaling effect"
,
"
Wavelength"
.
Shallow-water constituent
->
"
Composante de haut-fond"
A short period harmonic term added to take into account shallow water conditions in a tidal formula.
Shear
->
"
Cisaillement"
A quasi-horizontal layer which has not the same speed than the layer below or above.
Shoaling coefficient
->
"
Coefficient de profondeur"
Ratio of the shallow wave height to the wave height in deep water.
Shoaling effect
->
"
Effet de haut-fond"
Consequence of a gradual decrease in water depth.
The waves
"
Steepness"
increases, while their speed decreases.
Significant wave height
->
"
Hauteur significative de vague"
Hs
m
Average of the higher one-third fractile of the wave heights.
-> see form
See also
"
Zero downcrossing significant wave height"
and
"
Zero upcrossing significant wave height"
.
Significant wave period
->
"
Période significative des vagues"
Ts
s
Defined as the average of the periods of the highest one-third of wave heights.
Zero downcrossing or zero upcrossing.
Slack
->
"
Renverse"
Period of low speed when the tidal currents are changing direction.
Solitary wave
->
"
Soliton"
A wave consisting of a single elevation neither followed nor preceded by another water elevation or depression.
See also
"
Tsunamis"
.
Spectral density function
->
"
Fonction de densité spectrale"
S
m2/Hz
Gives the dependence with frequency of the energy of the waves considered.
Also see
"
Energy spectrum"
,
"
One-dimensional spectrum"
.
Spectral wave period
->
"
Période spectrale"
T01
s
Average wave period defined by m0/m1
[1]
.
Spectral wave period
->
"
Période spectrale"
T02
s
Average wave period.
-> see form
Spectral wave period
->
"
Période spectrale"
T24
s
Average wave period.
-> see form
Spectral width parameters
->
"
Paramètres de largeur spectrale"
See
"
Peakedness factor"
,
"
Narrowness parameter"
,
"
Broadness factor"
.
Spilling waves
->
"
Déferlement glissant"
One kind of breaking waves, produced by a very gradually sloping underwater configuration.
Spring high water
->
"
Marée haute moyenne de Vives Eaux"
See
"
Mean high water springs"
.
Spring low water
->
"
Marée basse moyenne de Vives Eaux"
See
"
Mean low water springs"
.
Spring range
->
"
Niveau de Vives-Eaux"
The average range of the tides that occur at the spring tides period.
Spring tides
->
"
Marées de Vives-Eaux"
Tides of greater amplitude which occur twice a month as the moon is full or new.
Standing wave
->
"
Vagues stationnaires"
Same as
"
Stationary wave"
.
Stand of tide
->
"
Etale de la marée"
Period of apparent stand in the water level at high or low water.
Stationary wave
->
"
Vagues stationnaires"
A wave that oscillates without progressing. The points where the water is not disturbed are the
"
Nodes"
, and the points where the vertical movement amplitude is at a maximum are the
"
Loops"
.
It can be created by the encounter of two equal periodic wave trains travelling in opposite directions.
Also called
"
Standing wave"
. see also
"
Seiche"
Still water level
->
"
Niveau de repos"
SWL
The hypothetic water level without taking into account any wave effect.
Steepness
->
"
Cambrure"
Ratio of the height of a wave to its length. It cannot exceed the breaking limit, approximately 1/7.
Stokes theories
->
"
Théories de Stokes"
Theories used to describe non linear waves, mostly steep waves in deep water.
Storm surge
->
"
Surcôte de tempête"
The local change in the elevation of the ocean along a shore due to the action of a storm wind.
Storm tide
->
"
Niveau de tempête"
The total water elevation: composed of the
"
Storm surge"
and of the tide level.
Stream
->
"
Courant"
Commonly a sea current of any origin.
See
"
Current"
,
"
Tidal currents"
,
"
Wind current"
.
Stream function theory
->
"
Théorie des fonctions de courant?"
Nonlinear theory based on the stream function describing the progressive wave
[3]
.
Superposition
->
"
Superposition"
Principle after which a natural wave system is a linear superposition of several
"
Airy wave"
travelling independently of one another in different directions, having different wave lengths and frequencies.
Better verified for small-amplitude waves.
Surface elevation
->
"
Elévation de surface"
m
Evolution of the surface height with time and space, referred to the
"
Still water level"
.
Surface tension
->
"
Tension superficielle"
Phenomenon by which a water surface tends to recover a flat aspect after a small perturbation.
Surf zone
->
"
Zone de déferlement"
See
"
Breaker zone"
.
Surging waves
->
"
Déferlement frontal"
One kind of breaking waves associated to relatively deep water approaches to steep beaches.
See
"
Plunging waves"
,
"
Spilling waves"
.
Swell
->
"
Houle"
Refers to waves generated by distant wind fields.
See also
"
Ground swell"
,
"
Ocean swell"
,...
Synodic month
->
"
Mois synodique"
Duration between two successive full Moons.
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