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A-B-C-D-E-F-G-H-I-J-K-L-M-N-O-P-Q-R-S-T-U-V-W-X-Y-Z -> Glossaire français

S
Word

-> "Mot"
Symbol
Unity
Definition
Sandwave

-> "Dune sous-marine"


A large wavelike sand feature usually in shallow water.
Saros

-> "Saros"


Duration of exactly 18 years, 18 and 1/3 days, in which solar and lunar eclipses repeat themselves under the same conditions.
Scour

-> "Affouillement"


Movement of underwater particle caused by waves and currents.
Sea breeze

-> "Brise de mer"


Light "Onshore wind" which is generated by the difference of temperature between land and water.
Sea puss

-> "Baïne"


A dangerous longshore current caused by return flow.
Sea state

-> "Etat de mer"


A wave system with constant statistical properties over some extent in time and space.
Seiche

-> "Seiche"


A "Stationary wave" which appears in lakes, semi-enclosed bodies of water, and which is due to a strong wind or changes in barometric pressure.
Seiche celerity

-> "Vitesse de seiche"


Propagation speed of that kind of wave in finite depth. -> see form
Seiche period

-> "Période de seiche"


-> see form
Seismic disturbances

-> "Perturbations sismiques"


See "Wave generation", "Tsunamis".
Semidiurnal

-> "Semidiurne"


An event with a period of half a day.
Set of current



The direction toward which the current flows.
See "Current direction".
Shallow-water wave

-> "Vagues de haut-fond"


Wave moving in water shallower than half its length.
See also "Shoaling effect", "Wavelength".
Shallow-water constituent

-> "Composante de haut-fond"


A short period harmonic term added to take into account shallow water conditions in a tidal formula.
Shear

-> "Cisaillement"


A quasi-horizontal layer which has not the same speed than the layer below or above.
Shoaling coefficient

-> "Coefficient de profondeur"


Ratio of the shallow wave height to the wave height in deep water.
Shoaling effect

-> "Effet de haut-fond"


Consequence of a gradual decrease in water depth.
The waves "Steepness" increases, while their speed decreases.
Significant wave height

-> "Hauteur significative de vague"
Hs
m
Average of the higher one-third fractile of the wave heights. -> see form
See also "Zero downcrossing significant wave height" and "Zero upcrossing significant wave height".
Significant wave period

-> "Période significative des vagues"
Ts
s
Defined as the average of the periods of the highest one-third of wave heights.
Zero downcrossing or zero upcrossing.
Slack

-> "Renverse"


Period of low speed when the tidal currents are changing direction.
Solitary wave

-> "Soliton"


A wave consisting of a single elevation neither followed nor preceded by another water elevation or depression.
See also "Tsunamis".
Spectral density function

-> "Fonction de densité spectrale"
S
m2/Hz
Gives the dependence with frequency of the energy of the waves considered.
Also see "Energy spectrum", "One-dimensional spectrum".
Spectral wave period

-> "Période spectrale"
T01
s
Average wave period defined by m0/m1 [1].
Spectral wave period

-> "Période spectrale"
T02
s
Average wave period. -> see form
Spectral wave period

-> "Période spectrale"
T24
s
Average wave period. -> see form
Spectral width parameters

-> "Paramètres de largeur spectrale"


See "Peakedness factor", "Narrowness parameter", "Broadness factor".
Spilling waves

-> "Déferlement glissant"


One kind of breaking waves, produced by a very gradually sloping underwater configuration.
Spring high water

-> "Marée haute moyenne de Vives Eaux"


See "Mean high water springs".
Spring low water

-> "Marée basse moyenne de Vives Eaux"


See "Mean low water springs".
Spring range

-> "Niveau de Vives-Eaux"


The average range of the tides that occur at the spring tides period.
Spring tides

-> "Marées de Vives-Eaux"


Tides of greater amplitude which occur twice a month as the moon is full or new.
Standing wave

-> "Vagues stationnaires"


Same as "Stationary wave".
Stand of tide

-> "Etale de la marée"


Period of apparent stand in the water level at high or low water.
Stationary wave

-> "Vagues stationnaires"


A wave that oscillates without progressing. The points where the water is not disturbed are the "Nodes", and the points where the vertical movement amplitude is at a maximum are the "Loops".
It can be created by the encounter of two equal periodic wave trains travelling in opposite directions.
Also called "Standing wave". see also "Seiche"
Still water level

-> "Niveau de repos"
SWL

The hypothetic water level without taking into account any wave effect.
Steepness

-> "Cambrure"


Ratio of the height of a wave to its length. It cannot exceed the breaking limit, approximately 1/7.
Stokes theories

-> "Théories de Stokes"


Theories used to describe non linear waves, mostly steep waves in deep water.
Storm surge

-> "Surcôte de tempête"


The local change in the elevation of the ocean along a shore due to the action of a storm wind.
Storm tide

-> "Niveau de tempête"


The total water elevation: composed of the "Storm surge" and of the tide level.
Stream

-> "Courant"


Commonly a sea current of any origin.
See "Current", "Tidal currents", "Wind current".
Stream function theory

-> "Théorie des fonctions de courant?"


Nonlinear theory based on the stream function describing the progressive wave [3].
Superposition

-> "Superposition"


Principle after which a natural wave system is a linear superposition of several "Airy wave" travelling independently of one another in different directions, having different wave lengths and frequencies.
Better verified for small-amplitude waves.
Surface elevation

-> "Elévation de surface"

m
Evolution of the surface height with time and space, referred to the "Still water level".
Surface tension

-> "Tension superficielle"


Phenomenon by which a water surface tends to recover a flat aspect after a small perturbation.
Surf zone

-> "Zone de déferlement"


See "Breaker zone".
Surging waves

-> "Déferlement frontal"


One kind of breaking waves associated to relatively deep water approaches to steep beaches.
See "Plunging waves", "Spilling waves".
Swell

-> "Houle"


Refers to waves generated by distant wind fields.
See also "Ground swell", "Ocean swell",...
Synodic month

-> "Mois synodique"


Duration between two successive full Moons.



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